A Complete Guide to the Art of Lapidary

Gemstone cutting is the transformation of raw mineral into brilliance, artistry, and optical precision. While most people think of traditional faceted gems, the world of lapidary is far richer and more creative. As a U.S. gemstone carver and American lapidary artist, my work spans fantasy cuts, sculptural carving, and faceting—styles that allow each stone to become a unique, hand-cut work of art.

This guide explains the cutting process in clear steps, shows how each cutting style is created, and highlights why collectors value hand-cut gemstones.

1. What Is Gemstone Cutting?

Gemstone cutting—or lapidary—is the practice of shaping, faceting, carving, and polishing gemstones to enhance their natural beauty. Cutting affects:

• brilliance
• color distribution
• depth
• light movement
• artistic expression

Every gemstone has unique internal features and structural characteristics. A skilled cutter designs the gem around its natural strengths, creating a balance between performance and artistry.

2. Different Styles of Gemstone Cutting

Before exploring the processes, it’s important to understand the four primary styles:

• Faceting — precision, brilliance, symmetry
• Fantasy cuts — sculpted surfaces, optical effects, creative expression
• Carving / sculptural cuts — three-dimensional artistry

Each cutting style requires a different approach, set of tools, and creative mindset.

3. Tools Used to Cut Gemstones

Creating a finished gemstone requires precision equipment and specialized hand tools.

Faceting Tools

• Faceting machine
• Dop sticks & adhesives
• Diamond wheels
• Polishing laps (ceramic, metal, composite)

Carving & Fantasy Tools

• Foredom / flex shaft
• Micro-motors
• Specialty carving burs
• Custom wheels and polishing burs
• Diamond-impregnated tools
• Hand-made polishing tips for sculptural surfaces

Master cutters often make their own tools to achieve effects that cannot be mass-produced.

4. How Faceting Works

Faceting uses flat, angled surfaces to maximize brilliance and light return.

Step 1 — Evaluating the Rough

The cutter analyzes:

• clarity & inclusions
• shape and yield
• pleochroism
• best orientation for brightness

Step 2 — Dopping

The stone is mounted on a dop stick for precise control.

Step 3 — Cutting the Pavilion

The faceting machine sets angles and index positions to cut symmetrical facets.

Step 4 — Polishing the Pavilion

Diamond polish is used to remove scratches and create maximum internal reflection.

Step 5 — Transferring

The stone is transferred so the crown can be cut without disturbing the pavilion.

Step 6 — Cutting & Polishing the Crown

The crown facets—including the table—are cut, polished, and aligned for perfect optical performance.

Faceting is the most mathematical of all lapidary styles—every angle matters.

5. How Fantasy Cuts Are Made

Fantasy cutting blends precision with artistic sculpting to create optical depth, sculpted lines, and movement within the stone.

Step 1 — Studying the Material

The cutter analyzes:

• clarity
• color zoning
• internal direction of light
• potential reflective pathways

Step 2 — Shaping the Outline

Using wheels and laps, the rough is shaped into its intended silhouette.

Step 3 — Creating the Facets

Many fantasy cuts include traditional facets on the front and back to enhance brilliance.

Step 4 — Sculpting the Pavilion or BackIntegrating Facets (Optional)

Using carving tools and custom-made burs, the cutter shapes:

• grooves
• ridges
• scalloped textures
• flowing optical features
• curved reflective surfaces

Step 5 — Polishing

Polishing sculpted surfaces requires specialized tools and multiple steps.
Every curve must be polished cleanly to achieve transparency and optical precision.

Fantasy cutting is intensely creative—the stone guides the design as much as the artist.

6. How Gemstone Carving Works

Sculptural carving transforms a gemstone into a flowing three-dimensional artwork.

Step 1 — Design Planning

The cutter determines:

• overall flow
• direction of curves
• artistic movement
• how color will interact with shape

Step 2 — Rough Shaping

Diamond wheels remove material and define the major contours.

Step 3 — Sculpting the Details

Using micro-motors and fine burs, the cutter creates:

• carved valleys
• raised ridges
• depth variation
• layered textures
• smooth flowing curves

Step 4 — Polishing Sculptural Surfaces

Polishing carved gems is one of the most difficult stages.
Each texture and curve requires a specific polishing tool—many of which are handmade.

Carving emphasizes artistry, movement, and emotional expression.

8. Fantasy Cuts vs. Faceting vs. Carving (Quick Comparison)

9. Why Collect Hand-Cut Gemstones?

Hand-cut and artist-cut gems offer something mass-produced stones never can:

• individuality
• artistic intent
• optical uniqueness
• craftsmanship from a named American lapidary artist
• higher long-term collector appeal

Each piece carries the creative identity of the artist who shaped it.

10. Explore Available Hand-Cut Gemstones

If you’re looking for a one-of-a-kind gemstone—faceted, carved, fantasy, or combination—you can browse our constantly updated selection here:

👉 View Available Gemstones 

For more about my background, cutting style, and artistic approach, visit:
👉 About the Artist